If you have never visited the Krasny Oktyabr chocolate factory on Bolotny Island, now's the time to have a tour before the historical building gets converted into yet more luxury real estate.
The Krasny Oktyabr (Red October) factory has for decades been one of the landmarks of the Russian capital. After all, what could be more original than having a 19th century Willy Wonka chocolate factory right in the middle of the Moscow River?
And yet, with an order from the Moscow authorities prohibiting all industrial facilities inside of the city limits, the sweets factory is heading for the suburbs. Krasny Oktyabr is owned by Guta group, the Russian company that plans to develop the prime real estate.
The history of the Red October chocolate factory in the center of Moscow begins in 1851, when Teodore Ferdinand von Einem, a German confectioner, opened a small business on the Arbat. The present confectionary plant on Bersenevskaya Embankment was erected in 1889, producing not only chocolates and sweets but also biscuits, tea, coffee, and ice-cream. The brand name became world-renowned, and took home the Grand Prix at the Paris World Fair in 1900. After the October Revolution in 1917 the confectionary plant was nationalized and in 1922 it acquired the name of "Krasny Oktyabr." Familiar makes include Alyonka, Mishka Kosolapy and Tretyakov Gallery chocolates.
The Krasny Oktyabr production lines shall soon be joining those of the "Obedinennye Konditery" (United Confectioners) holding company to whom it has belonged since 2002.
"Practically the whole factory has already moved to its new premises," explains Oleg Lobachev, CEO of Red October Residence, Guta's Red October re-development project. "In fact only 2 production lines remain in the old buildings, and these will be removed by the end of the year, leaving the territory almost completely free for construction work to start."
Due to the upcoming move, excursions within the factory are fully booked until the end of December.
It is still possible, however, to join a large group and visit the factory museum and the production workshops, which are still operating. As the guide leads the group of visitors clad in gowns, hats and shoe-covers down the corridors of the old building, one gets the impression of going back in time and travelling down the austere passages of a Dickensian workhouse. Visiting the factory with a group of school children may not be the best way to enjoy the excursion, but it certainly makes for some good Roald Dahl entertainment.
As the guide distributes bars of Alyonka and Misha Kosolapy taken straight from the conveyor belts, children push and snatch at them with greedy paws despite promises that there is enough for all. In fact, there is more than enough. After twenty minutes some even look for bins after gorging more than they can stomach, keen to rid themselves of the melting bars which have been passed around, chewed and modeled like plasticine.
Watching some of the ancient machinery at work is entertaining in itself as conveyor belts carrying long twisted snakes of caramel are swallowed up by noisy and rather outdated chugging machinery. Despite the strict sanitary warnings, children's hands still mysteriously end up in the vats of melted praline.
At the end of the tour, which costs 340 rubles per person, you do get your money's worth: all the visitors are served a very welcome cup of tea to wash down the chocolate feast, and each guest goes home clutching a free box of Tretyakov Gallery chocolates.
So what is to become of Moscow's beloved chocolate factory? "Eight buildings will remain, including the three trademark red buildings and the famous chimney," explains Mr. Lobachev. "Thirty buildings, mainly warehouses and garages which are of no historical or cultural interest, are to be demolished and replaced with new constructions." The plan includes flats, hotels and social facilities including swimming pools, schools and child daycare centers which will be built to create a self-sufficient neighborhood on a relatively insular territory. In fact this was the idea behind its neighboring "House on the Embankment," built in the 1930s as a constructivist example of perfect communist housing. The territory being developed, which is almost five hectares, is not only quiet and green but will be accessible from either bank via new pedestrian bridges, which have greatly increased its value.
"Russian and foreign architects are participating in the redevelopment project," explains Anastasia Podakina, the project's PR director. "The master plan was developed by Mosproekt 2, headed by Honoured Architect Mikhail Posokhin. French architect Jean-Michel Vilmotte, who participated in the reconstruction of the Louvre is taking part as well, with the renowned British architect Norman Foster of Foster and Partners."
Loft apartments are set to be created from the spacious top-floor production halls with their high ceilings and wide windows. Industrial-to-residential conversions can be found in Europe or America, but a merging of old and new is rather an enterprising project in Russia, where often everything is rebuilt from scratch. "Our aim is to preserve as much as possible," stresses Mr Lobachev. "It's true that in Soviet times people did not have the same attitude to cultural heritage." London's Tate Modern art gallery was converted from an old power station and the Musée d'Orsay in Paris from a train station built in 1900.
"The lofts will be one of the special features of our project," says Mr. Lobachev. "There will be many different buildings, modern and old, but the lofts will be very attractive since they are still a relatively new concept."
The redevelopment of Bolotny Island, which should be completed within 2-3 years, is a wonderful example of how modern projects can still
be undertaken without necessarily destroying Moscow's heritage. For many Muscovites, however, the removal of such a legendary household institution from their doorstep may take some getting used to.
"It's one of the symbols of Moscow," says Alina Lobzina who studies at the Russian State University for Humanities. "We have come to know [Bolotny Island] as the chocolate island."
The Red October factory museum will, however, remain open on the island, as well as a hand-made chocolate production department. "Moscow will not lose Krasny Oktyabr, nor will the smell of chocolate leave the island," laughs Ms. Podakina.
By Nathalie Cooper
